The 5 pm traffic jam of cars with African Development Bank licence plates heading out of Abidjan's Plateau business district to leafy villas in Cocody and Deux Plateaux is gone. Instead, the streets are clogged with empty orange taxis - some cruise round all day without a client - and the white United Nations' 4x4s that flock to Africa's humanitarian emergencies but have never been needed in Côte d'Ivoire before. For now, people are no longer being dragged from their homes at dead of night and the curfew has been put back to midnight but the rebels who control half the country refuse to take up their posts in the national unity government and clashes continue in the west (AC Vol 44 No 2).
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